21/09/2023

First it was salt… now pepper's gone posh!

First it was salt… now pepper’s gone posh!

Discover new varieties of pepper to take food from run-of-the-mill to ravishing
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Pepper appreciation has come a long way since the days when a waiter’s macho grind of the pepper mill was deemed the height of sophistication.

Just as salt turned posh, pink and hand-harvested from the Westfjords of Iceland, now it’s pepper’s turn — and the variety you find in little pots of Bart and Schwartz won’t cut it.

‘Finishing a dish with a twist of the mill with the right pepper is like adding a splash of fragrance and gives dishes extra depth and intrigue,’ says Ren Patel (renskitchen.com), who teaches top UK chefs how to use a wider repertoire of peppers.

As with grapes grown for wine, peppercorns differ in flavour according to soil, climate, growing conditions and variety.

For savvy dinner table chat, it’s worth knowing that green, white, red and black pepper come from the same plant, but are obtained at different ripening stages.

Peppercorns differ in flavour according to soil, climate, growing conditions and variety, just like grapes

The berries are traditionally laid in the sun which stimulates the creation of piperine — the active ingredient that gives the distinctive tingling sensation on the palate.

It makes sense that different peppers suit different dishes, so a variety of black pepper might offer the ideal hint of citrus zest to lift a fish dish, while white pepper pairs well with creamy sauces.

Here, Sudi Pigott suggests the perfect varieties to take your food from run-of-the-mill to ravishing.

Tellicherry (£13 for 50g, vinegarshed.com)

PEP UP SALAD

Tellicherry (£13 for 50g, vinegarshed.com)

Only the largest 10 per cent of the Malabar pepper crop, grown in Kerala, India, qualify as Tellicherry.

These peppercorns have less heat and a fresh, fruity aroma, with hints of grapefruit zest and pine forest.

PAIR IT WITH: A heritage tomato salad, as it brings out the sweetness. Or add it to pasta as part of an indulgent cacio e pepe sauce.

THE CHAMPAGNE OF PEPPERCORNS

Kadode Kampot Red Pepper (£6.50 for 40g, kadodepepper.co.uk)

This extremely rare red kampot pepper is fragrant with rose and cherry, and rich with complexity. It is said to be the most aromatic pepper in the world.

PAIR IT WITH: Game, especially venison, or as a dessert pepper on pear compote, fruit tarts or even chocolate mousse.

Voatsiperifery (£8.09 for 50g, souschef.co.uk)

EXOTIC RARITY

Voatsiperifery (£8.09 for 50g, souschef.co.uk)

A rare, wild pepper grown in south-east Madagascan rainforests, voatsiperifery is a close relative of black pepper. Chefs love its delicately fruity aroma.

PAIR IT WITH: Chicken or oily fish such as mackerel, as it gives a zesty lift.

POTS OF JOY

Kampot (£9.95 for 90g, botreefarm.co.uk)

Grown in Cambodia’s Kampot region, this pepper is produced in green, black, red and white varieties.

The black pepper has outstanding floral, eucalyptus and citrus aromas, with a hint of lime blossom.

Kampot (£9.95 for 90g, botreefarm.co.uk)

PAIR IT WITH: Seafood as a finishing pepper, especially with crab. It is favoured by Michel Roux Jr when making his definitive steak au poivre.

APERITIF WINNER

Fermented fresh green kampot peppercorns (£5 for 25g, kadodepepper.co.uk)

These award-winning, strangely snackable fresh green peppercorns, produced in Kampot, are fermented in salt to retain their juiciness.

They are soft, aromatic and vibrant, with plenty of citrus.

PAIR IT WITH: Drinks as a nibble, or sprinkle on salads or terrines.

Wayanad (£1.70 for 10g, waitrose.com)

CITRUS KICK

Wayanad (£1.70 for 10g, waitrose.com)

WayAnad pepper is named after the warm region in Kerala where it’s grown. It is intensely spicy, with a tangy aroma and citrus kick.

PAIR IT WITH: Slow-cooked casserole dishes or try it with poached fruit.

TONGUE TINGLE

White sarawak (£6.99 for 80g, souschef.co.uk)

From mountainous North Borneo, the flavour is almost musk-like with hints of liquorice and tongue- tingling lemon.

PAIR IT WITH: Perfect with fish, providing a light, aromatic pepperiness.

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